Pyle Universal Compact 30 Amp Bench Power Supply

This supply was to be used for my ham station. I liked the fact that what you see is what you get. No nonsense. It's great that it has binding posts and not screw terminals. OK, so it has just one set of connections for the outputs. Now for the dislikes. I would have preferred the output terminals be on the backside instead of the front. Oh yeah, almost forgot, the screws used for the fan, cosmetically, they are out of place. The screw heads are really big compared to what screw heads are being used on the rest of the case. A simple set of fan screws would have done nicely. As for its performance, it's quiet well, sorta. Being a ham radio operator, we gotta have supplies that don't generate noise. Every roughly 30 Kilohertz or so, it would generate what I would call a growling birdie. In between those birdies, it was nice and quiet. If you operate above 7.4 megs, you won't hear any birdies. They seem to disappear. I tuned around on my Kenwood, TS590S, up and through 6 meters almost up to 60 megahertz and no noise. If it had a noise offset control, this would be great. I started looking around for a better/quieter supply than the one I currently use. I actually had two radios connected at the same time. When I turned on the second radio, the birdies just got louder. So if Sound surround, the parent company for Pyle and Pyramid read this, I would make the following suggestions. 1. You want to save a buck or two, get rid of the 120V/240V switch. Just replace it with an internal jumper. Then you don't need to punch out the hole for the switch. In the US it's 120V anyway. So if you have to take the supply abroad, you just open it up, and remove one side of the jumper loop. It's not one of those settings that you would normally need to change. Besides with all of that RF floating around inside of the case, the less wire the better. 2. Add a noise offset control on the front. I noticed after it was on for awhile, the birdies didn't seem to drift around much. 3. Place the connectors on the back instead of the front. While you are at it, mount the connectors, Red on top, and Black on bottom. So all you would have on the front would be your on/off switch and the noise offset control. Final thoughts: This supply still has lots of potential. Sound surround engineers need to take this design and finish up the RF filtering. Of course if the filtering is good enough, you won't need that offset control. But if not then maybe add that noise offset control anyway. If that's done, I'll be happy to buy the supply. Ray