WootBot


quality posts: 15 Private Messages WootBot

Staff

Bazooka Mobile Audio

What's the second thing you think of when you hear the word sub? If you answered sandwich or naval vessel, you win! Because that means the first thing you thought of was a subwoofer. And that means you love audio. And that means… well, it means you're in the right place.

bsmith1


quality posts: 105 Private Messages bsmith1

Good day. I'm confused about the 8" 250watt one: http://tech.woot.com/offers/8-250w-amplified-tube-2
Titled 250w, features tab says it has a 160w amp, specs tab shows 250w output 300w max.
How can a 160w amp run at 250w? Crutchfield shows this model has a max of 250w and RMS of 160w.

atetra


quality posts: 1 Private Messages atetra
bsmith1 wrote:Good day. I'm confused about the 8" 250watt one: http://tech.woot.com/offers/8-250w-amplified-tube-2
Titled 250w, features tab says it has a 160w amp, specs tab shows 250w output 300w max.
How can a 160w amp run at 250w? Crutchfield shows this model has a max of 250w and RMS of 160w.



Confusing, ain't it?!? I doubt that Bazooka rates the power on their amps using the CEA2006 standard. The specs on their website are just as confusing, all of which is par for the course for some car audio manufacturers, especially lower end ones. Large wattage numbers will lure in unsuspecting buyers, but the truth is the numbers shown are usually for peak power, not RMS power, which appears to be the case here. I'd believe the 160W RMS number. The 250W is the peak power output of the amp. That said, 160W should push that tube fine.

Quality Post? What's a Quality Post??

bsmith1


quality posts: 105 Private Messages bsmith1
atetra wrote:Confusing, ain't it?!? I doubt that Bazooka rates the power on their amps using the CEA2006 standard. The specs on their website are just as confusing, all of which is par for the course for some car audio manufacturers, especially lower end ones. Large wattage numbers will lure in unsuspecting buyers, but the truth is the numbers shown are usually for peak power, not RMS power, which appears to be the case here. I'd believe the 160W RMS number. The 250W is the peak power output of the amp. That said, 160W should push that tube fine.



I understand the RMS vs Max and how most things will list at the max wattage. What's confusing here is the 160watt amp that supposedly has a 250watt RMS and a max 300watts... I would believe a 160 RMS with 250 max, but that's now how it's listed.

Edit: Maybe it's more confusing because the speaker can handle a max of 300 while the amp only has a max of 250... Actually, the amp may be 160 max and the speaker is 250 rms and 300 max. that might make sense too, but it's not listed that way.

PemberDucky


quality posts: 41 Private Messages PemberDucky

Staff

Couple of things from the vendor/buyer that may clear up some confusion.

There was an error on the amp size.
It should be 200W RMS @ 4 ohm and 275W RMS @ 2 ohm for the amp.

250W is what Bazooka lists for power output, and the max output 300W.

The info will be updated.


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Not sure if you should post that? This slightly-nsfw-flowchart will help.

Nine11


quality posts: 3 Private Messages Nine11
bsmith1 wrote:I understand the RMS vs Max and how most things will list at the max wattage. What's confusing here is the 160watt amp that supposedly has a 250watt RMS and a max 300watts... I would believe a 160 RMS with 250 max, but that's now how it's listed.

Edit: Maybe it's more confusing because the speaker can handle a max of 300 while the amp only has a max of 250... Actually, the amp may be 160 max and the speaker is 250 rms and 300 max. that might make sense too, but it's not listed that way.



The internal amp is rated at 160W, so it's 80+80 or 160x1, bridged to a single driver. That accounts for the 2 ohm reference and higher advertised wattage. More than enough for an 8" sub. Only draws 15 amps, so the amp is very efficient, digital, or (most likely) overrated. A trick is to bench-test and rate an amp at 16V when most vehicles will run 12V +/- from the alternator. Quality amps will come with a "birth certificate" with bench test results at various amps and wattage output. I'm running 100W @ 16V (via Jacobs Electronics Accuvolt) to an ID8 @ 4 ohms and it sounds great. I wouldn't worry about the 8" Bazooka @ 250-ish watts, is should drive just fine even if it was seeing less than the advertised wattage. I would just stay away from the 50W version as it is most likely under-powered.

bsmith1


quality posts: 105 Private Messages bsmith1
PemberDucky wrote:
There was an error on the amp size.
It should be 200W RMS @ 4 ohm and 275W RMS @ 2 ohm for the amp.



Thanks. You are amazing.

AuraDave


quality posts: 7 Private Messages AuraDave

I have the 10" 250w version that is no longer on this Bazooka sale but otherwise identical to the 8" and I can say that it is very powerful - especially if I turn up the sensitivity on the unit itself. Depending on the music you listen to, the 250w should be plenty loud. This isn't going to be the best choice for heavy bass music. For me, I needed something to augment the road noise in a convertible and it fit the bill and then some. For the price they are excellent.

daveinwarshington


quality posts: 22 Private Messages daveinwarshington

I thought Bazooka was a brand of bubble gum.

pablogerber


quality posts: 0 Private Messages pablogerber

I'm seriously looking at buying one of these.. but how am I going to make this handle low frequencies using the factory unit and not an aftermarket?