bsmith1 wrote:I understand the RMS vs Max and how most things will list at the max wattage. What's confusing here is the 160watt amp that supposedly has a 250watt RMS and a max 300watts... I would believe a 160 RMS with 250 max, but that's now how it's listed.
Edit: Maybe it's more confusing because the speaker can handle a max of 300 while the amp only has a max of 250... Actually, the amp may be 160 max and the speaker is 250 rms and 300 max. that might make sense too, but it's not listed that way.
The internal amp is rated at 160W, so it's 80+80 or 160x1, bridged to a single driver. That accounts for the 2 ohm reference and higher advertised wattage. More than enough for an 8" sub. Only draws 15 amps, so the amp is very efficient, digital, or (most likely) overrated. A trick is to bench-test and rate an amp at 16V when most vehicles will run 12V +/- from the alternator. Quality amps will come with a "birth certificate" with bench test results at various amps and wattage output. I'm running 100W @ 16V (via Jacobs Electronics Accuvolt) to an ID8 @ 4 ohms and it sounds great. I wouldn't worry about the 8" Bazooka @ 250-ish watts, is should drive just fine even if it was seeing less than the advertised wattage. I would just stay away from the 50W version as it is most likely under-powered.